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Contributed by:
Jean Croissant
Have
you ever wondered why designer clothes like Jean
Paul Gaultier, Christian Dior, Pierre Cardin and Coco
Chanel are so attractive and popular and why people
have been attracted
to fashion for centuries. We are victims of the Heritage
of History.
Throughout
the ages, French Society always gave a large
importance to the way
you should dress in society.
As
early as the Xth
century in
France, clothes became
the reflection of social status and soon enough, “le
code de l’habillement”
(the rules of dressing properly) became mandatory. Just
by looking at your clothes,
we knew where you came from, what was your occupation,
what were your intentions
and
probably what you had for diner.
In
the middle age
period, jute was
used to make clothes for poor people while silks
and precious exotic fabrics
were used for aristocraty and the royal
court.
Until
the early XIXth
century, 75 % of the
clothes were hand-stitched by the people who wore
them.
Day
after day, the clothing industry gradually took place in
the middle ages. Essentially
small stores operated by manual labor (very few
tools available), the owner usually worked by himself or
with one or two employees, serving
the local community.
With
the King Louis IX
(1215-1270) appeared
the first merchant (first type of designer working for
others) and the first
rule book stating what a merchant should and not
do. They were working
form dawn to dusk. Soon, they created a “union” and
became very organized
in the major French cities and of Course in Paris,
already a trend setter of
“what to do and what to wear”. Those active in
the clothing industry
had to register at the “register du commerce” specifying
their specialty (belt- maker,
buttons-maker, dress-maker, fabric-cutter, shoemaker,
etc…).
In
the XIIIth
century, the 'couturier'
(dressmaker) became the most important and structured
entity in the industry.
With the invention of the 'Métier à tisser' (loom)
in 1475
by Jacquard, the industry took a leap
forward and began its
true expansion.
With
the rise of Louis XIV
and the profusion
of clothes and accessories
dedicated to all kind of situation and conditions in the
royal court, the clothing
industry knew a gigantic development, the
fashion concept appeared
in the royal court of the “chateau de Versailles'.
France was already the place
to be to learn about the latest fashion
creations.
Soon,
all European high society started to come to
France and attired according
to the fashion “tendance a la mode” (trendy
tendency).
With
the industrial revolution starting in the end of the
XVIIIth
century,
fabrics became more affordable, available
with better qualities and higher
quantities. Step by step, the industry replaced the
handcraft companies (and
got very organized).
In
1830, a renowned
new activity was born:
“Le tailleur” (clothe designer/maker) and being a
famous“tailleur” in town ranked
second position in society after the chief
of government.
The
sewing machine appeared, and in 1850,
the first ready-to-wear (prêt-a-porter) were
created.
Mass-production,
“prêt-a-porter”, caused the industry rapid growth. In
1880,
the first collection for children opened the industry to
a never-ending story.
By the end of the XIXth
century, the
industry counted 30 thousands workers and was very
prosperous.
People
from all over the World were traveling to Paris to see
the latest
show in town.
Queen
Elizabeth the
First, Queen of England
admitted having more
than one thousand designer dresses in the closet of her
palace.
During
the XXth
century, numerous designers
became famous for their Art. Some changed the way you
perceive Fashion forever
like Coco
Chanel and Jean
Paul Gaultier.
See
also The Designer
stores in Paris, calendar of the Fashion
Events and the history of the
Tie
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