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Contributed by:  Jean Croissant

Have you ever wondered why designer clothes like Jean Paul Gaultier, Christian Dior, Pierre Cardin and Coco Chanel are so attractive and popular and why people have been attracted to fashion for centuries. We are victims of the Heritage of History.

Throughout the ages, French Society always gave a large importance to the way you should dress in society.

As early as the Xth century in France, clothes became the reflection of social status and soon enough, “le code de l’habillement” (the rules of dressing properly) became mandatory. Just by looking at your clothes, we knew where you came from, what was your occupation, what were your intentions andPoulaine, shoes type in the middle-age, France probably what you had for diner.

In the middle age period, jute was used to make clothes for poor people while silks and precious exotic fabrics were used for  aristocraty and the royal court.

Until the early XIXth century, 75 % of the clothes were hand-stitched by the people who wore them.

Day after day, the clothing industry gradually took place in the middle ages. Essentially small stores operated by manual labor (very King Louis XI (1461-1483)few tools available), the owner usually worked by himself or with one or two employees, serving the local community.

With the King Louis IX (1215-1270) appeared the first merchant (first type of designer working for others) and the first rule book stating what a merchant should and not do. They were working form dawn to dusk. Soon, they created a “union” and became very organized in the major French cities and of Course in Paris, already a trend setter of “what to do and what to wear”. Those active in the clothing industry had to register at the “register du commerce” specifying their specialty (belt-Metier a tissermaker, buttons-maker, dress-maker, fabric-cutter, shoemaker, etc…).

In the XIIIth century, the 'couturier' (dressmaker) became the most important and structured entity in the industry. With the invention of the 'Métier à tisser' (loom) in 1475 by Jacquard, the industry took a leap forward and began its true expansion.

With the rise of Louis XIV and the profusion of clothes and Style in the XVIth centuryaccessories dedicated to all kind of situation and conditions in the royal court, the clothing industry knew a gigantic development, the fashion concept appeared in the royal court of the “chateau de Versailles'. France was already the place to be to learn about the latest fashion creations.

Soon, all European high society started to come to France and attired according to the fashion “tendance a la mode” (trendy tendency).

 With the industrial revolution starting in the end of the XVIIIth Frenchman style in the XVIIIth centurycentury, fabrics became more affordable, available with better qualities and higher quantities. Step by step, the industry replaced the handcraft companies (and got very organized).

In 1830, a renowned new activity was born: “Le tailleur” (clothe designer/maker) and being a famous“tailleur” in town ranked second position in society after the chief of government.

One of the Early sewing Machine, ParisThe sewing machine appeared, and in 1850, the first ready-to-wear (prêt-a-porter) were created.

Mass-production, “prêt-a-porter”, caused the industry rapid growth. In 1880, the first collection for children opened the industry to a never-ending story. By the end of the XIXth century, the industry counted 30 thousands workers and was very prosperous.

People from all over the World were traveling to Paris to see the latest show in town.  

Queen Elizabeth the First, Queen of England admitted having moreSewing machine in the early century than one thousand designer dresses in the closet of her palace.

During the XXth century, numerous designers became famous for their Art. Some changed the way you perceive Fashion forever like Coco Chanel and Jean Paul Gaultier.

See also The Designer stores in Paris, calendar of the Fashion Events and the history of the Tie

 

 

 

 

 




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